12.29.2009

New Ideas for the New Year


It's an exciting day for this food-dork when Adam Platt comes out with his annual 'Where to Eat' Guide. It's like a secret roadmap for some ever changing underground city. A travel guide for my endless journey to discover what this city does best - eat. Today is that day. I have mixed feelings about this years guide. I don't know about you, but I'm sick of pork ten ways, fancy burgers and suggestions that I must try the mac n' cheese. Oh, and harem pants, but I digress. Well, Adam agrees with me on one of those points (au revoir Porky Pig), but I'm sorry to say, big ticket burgers and classy comfort food are still en vogue.
Last year, I put a good dent in Adam's 2009 list, making it to seventeen of his restaurant recommendations with a handful added to my ever growing must-try list. Lets add to the madness, shall we?

Trends in 2010 I'm excited for:


Seafood Renaissance: The antithesis of 2009's trend of going out for staying-in food. For example: my much adored grilled cheese and tomato soup - five ingredients, ten minutes, maybe ten dollars. Sure, it was  kitschy and fun the first time I had a truffled grilled cheese, but not the tenth. And my hips don't lie. When I go out for a meal, I want something I'd have trouble cooking myself. Sea urchin with lardo, cuttlefish tagliatelle and lobster with buratta all fall lovingly into that category. And for that reason alone, I welcome newcomers Marea and Fishtail.

Unexpected Gourmet: Now, don't get me wrong - I love Italian food. I love French fare. And I love whatever American cuisine means these days - but what I really love about New York is the accessibility of other, less common fodder. My wallet may not allow me to travel the world, but I can at least get a taste of it here. Aldea for Iberian. Seasonal Restaurant and Weinbar for Austrian. Sho Shaun Hergatt for what only can be described as 'eclectic'? Yes. Yes. Yes.

Southern Comfort: ...with lime - I just gagged. Okay, it may sound shockingly close to the comfort food trend I just hated on so much, but please let me explain. I'm not looking for another dish of baked mac n' cheese. I'm going to Joseph Leonard for some low-country grits - a dish that's like urban legend to a Long Island girl. (I'm not taking advice from some girl from Long Island!! - Estelle Costanza) Or to the Tipsy Parson for some fried pickles. Maybe Momofuku Noodle Bar for some Old-Bay fried chicken - as I can't even fathom owning a deep fryer.

2010 trends that I am not stoked about:


Second Acts: Revivals of relics and restaurants that I couldn't afford the first time around, pre-recession. I certainly can't afford them now. Thanks for the reminder.

Bull Market Italian: Anyone else have a problem with this one?! Last I checked the unemployment rate was at 10% and counting. I'll stick to the likes of Frankie Spuntino and Max for my spaghetti and meatballs this year, thank you.

Celebrity Chic: Secret reservation numbers and three month waiting lists doesn't mean your food is good. Neither does a group of anemic, teen celebrities who frown and pick at their food. Open the doors and let the people judge!

Wash it all down with this year's Best Cocktails
And if it's your thing: Best Desserts


Cheers to a happy and hearty 2010! Thank you for following...
- The Heat




12.23.2009

Christmas Tree oh Christmas Tree


No, this is not my Christmas tree. It may be a recession, but Christmas trees aren't something to skimp on. After all, it has to be big enough for Santa to fit my gifts under. And while small gifts can be great, this year my wish list consisted of more practical items such as a food processor and a dutch oven - no, not that kind of dutch oven. Sick.

The above picture is of a romanesco, or Roman Cauliflower, that I picked up at the Greenmarket last week. It's sort of a blend between broccoli and a cauliflower and can be prepared and cooked similarly to them. Steam and finish with a squirt of lemon, roast in the oven and sprinkle with parmesan cheese, or saute it with garlic and oil and use as a side dish. I chose to toss it into a simple pasta dish, where it's woody taste would be complimented by the citrus of lemons. I found the recipe in Rachel Ray's magazine, though I added my own twist by adding some frozen petite peas to bulk up the health factor and squeezing lemon over the top of the dish, rather than more cheese, to finish. Give it a whirl.

Romanesco Broccoli and Rigatoni

Salt and black pepper
1 pound rigatoni pasta
3 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 head romanesco broccoli cut into florets
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
2 sprigs rosemary, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2/3 cup grated pecorino-romano cheese 
1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted
Optional: handful of frozen peas - add along with the romanesco

Directions:
1.Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt it, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain, reserving a couple of ladlefuls of the pasta cooking water.

2.While the pasta is working, in a large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until golden, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in the wine for 1 minute, then the chicken stock. Add the broccoli, lemon peel, rosemary and crushed red pepper; season with salt and black pepper. Cover and cook for 10 minutes.

3.In a serving bowl, toss the pasta, reserved pasta cooking water, cooked vegetables, cheese and nuts for a minute. Season with salt and black pepper and a squirt of lemon over the top.

My actual Christmas Tree:



Happy Holidays!!
- The Heat

12.21.2009

Persimmons Perchance at Il Buco

The week before Christmas is crazy - holiday parties, last minute shopping, traffic, a foot of snow - which is why I decided to slow things down at Il Buco. Dark, cozy and rustic, it was the perfect place to hide from the cold and craziness. What I didn't realize, was that this time of year, there is no escaping the crazies. Grabbing a seat at the bar, I quickly realized I had sat down next to a woman whom I can best describe as Snooki's wicked step sister - let's just call her Snickers. Large attitude with even larger boobs, which outright refused to stay in her dress, she must have drank the whole bar before I arrived. Bartender, boyfriend and coworker were all enduring the wrath of Snickers, while I quietly enjoyed my late night dinner, simultaneously snapping away at the scene with my iphone. Sadly, due to the low lighting in the restaurant, this is the only picture that came out - and try as I might, Il Buco didn't have anymore pickles.


While enjoying our free entertainment, we had a wonderful late night meal of creamy leek and potato soup, a salad of persimmon, arugula, pecans and blue cheese and their garganelli al ragu, homemade pasta with a rich tomato based sauce of roasted chicken and salty olives. All were delightful, as was our bartender, despite being berated for making Snicker's gimlet 'too weak'. The barkeep even threw in a few glasses of a fantastic barolo, free of charge, for enduring the pain.
My favorite dish was the salad, which allowed me to try persimmons for the first time. Persimmons look like orange tomatoes, but have a sweeter, citrusy taste. They have been showing up at the Greenmarket recently, though I have been too intimidated to try them. My only knowledge of persimmons are as a holiday decoration, as part of a centerpiece. Little did I know, they are a wonderful, seasonal addition to pies, puddings, and cookies.  However, for my Christmas dinner, I have decided to mimic Il Buco, in fond memory of Snickers, and slice them into this lovely salad of frisee, radicchio, pears and pomegranites. I encourage you to try the fruit this holiday season any way you can. Happy holidays!!
- The Heat





47 Bond Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 533-1932


12.16.2009

Results: 7th Street Gets Lukewarm in the Cold







Mission: To eat at every restaurant on my list.
Location: 7th street between 1st avenue and avenue A.
Itinerary: my plan
Results: Lukewarm
Luke's A new addition to the battle of the lobster rolls, this tiny storefront claims to serve heaps of meat at wholesale prices with the help of the fratboy owner's lobster-hunting father in Maine. Turns out, $14 gets  what you'd expect - an embarrassingly small meal. The lobster salad was practically mayo-less, sans celery, and with entirely too large chunks of lobster. I had a full claw, cartilage and all, in mine - pretty, but not practical. I will give them kudos for their perfectly toasted, buttery roll. They just need to extend it by about three inches. I shiver at the thought of their 'snack size' roll ($8) - it can't be more than a two-bite slider. And with no beers to wash down the six that I'd have to eat to feel full, I won't be rushing back. 

Caracas Arepa Bar What is an arepa? One description is a Venezuelan, stuffed, corn muffin. Another - a Latin Sloppy Joe. Well I like corn muffins and I like Sloppy Joe's. I'll let you know if I like arepas next week.  I love arepas!! So much so that I contemplated walking back across Manhattan to order a few more (three for two people didn't cut it). Arepas are like little corn paninis - but the bread is softer and sweeter than your average ciabatta. My favorite was La De Pernil (roasted pork shoulder, tomato slices and spicy mango sauce), which was like a Venezuelan version of a bbq pulled pork sandwich. Try the La Surena (chicken and chorizo, avocado, and chimi-churri sauce) and De Pabellon (shredded beef, black beans, cheese and plantains) for a more traditional experience. 

Pylos "Rustic Greek Home Cooking". Long since gone are the days where we'd just call it GREEK, but I digress. The space is sleek and the menu arranged in a way that encourages the ordering of many little plates, allowing me to satisfy my cravings for moussaka, stuffed grape leaves, spanikopita, and tzatziki all in one seating. Because there just aren't enough good Greek places in NYC - and no, I'm not moving to Queens. Pylos, oh Pylos (pronounced Pee-los fyi). Why are you so difficult?! I tried to get reservations both Friday and Saturday nights, as well as last night - nothing.  Pylos was closed for holiday parties every night. In the words of California's beloved governor - I'll be back!

7A I ate a hungover brunch at 7A many, many moons ago and I was psyched to come across the bustling cafe again. I was a starving college student submitted to student cafeterias, so I fear my review would be stale and partly cloudy. My memory consists of a delicious plate of shrimp and avocado eggs benedict, a spicy bloody mary and a raging headache from my first encounter with mojitos. I'm excited for my second trip and the three other types of egg benedict to chose from - headache notwithstanding. I write this post from 7A - eating an average tuna avocado melt and a weak cup of coffee. Waiting an hour outside in the cold for eggs benedict wasn't happening this weekend - I stuck to homemade egg sammy's on my couch instead. So it turns out I was still drunk last time and 7A is mediocre.  It seems like it can't decide if it wants to be a diner or a cafe. The menu has some creative flare amongst your run-of-the-mill diner fare -  6 types of burgers, health-centric sandwiches and two lowly burritos hanging awkwardly on the right side of the menu. But as only an indigenous Long Islander can say, not nearly the breadth of options a true diner should have. There's not even a grilled cheese on the menu! Make up your mind 7A - are you a cute cafe or a monster diner? And unless you start handing out VIP reservations for Sunday brunch, it's unlikely that I'll be returning.

Porchetta. As discussed, Sunday is the day of comfort food, and this Sunday I plan to stuff my face with pig. This place has gotten an absurd amount of press for their porchetta sandwich - a Sullivan St Bakery ciabatta roll stuffed full of their famous pork and made for walking. At $10 a pop, I think I'll get two and share with my trusty walking companion. Salt. Salt on Porchetta and salt on my pork. Salt on my potatoes and salt on my broccoli rabe. But not on my beans? At least be consistent. I sat down to wait for my porchetta plate and read an article posted on the wall about their famous salt. Infused with rosemary, garlic, sage and fennel seeds, it claims to bring out the flavor of all meats - but all I could taste was salt and I'm salty about it.  Yes, the pork was pretty good - when you weren't cracking a tooth on the shards of glaze or cringing at your fifth straight bite of nothing but lard. The potatoes with burnt ends were startlingly dry and, wait for it, salty. The broccoli rabe a healthier salt lick and the baked beans a bland bore.  I was so disappointed after all the hype that I nixed the promised sandwich for my puppy and bought her an arepa instead. Salt.

A few noteworthy additions to my 7th street post, though I won't be making that crosstown walk anytime soon:


- The Heat

12.13.2009

The Quick and Dirty: Mo' Momofuko Please


Saturday night - my night off from my self inflicted food crawl down 7th street - so I decided to mix things up at Momofuko Ssäm Bar - a David Chang experience for the bourgeosie. Larger, cheaper and less exclusive than it's predecessor, Momofuku Ko, Ssäm didn't fall short of my lofty expectations. I had a top ten best meal of 2009 - trophies can be picked up at the door.

COLD: No reservations and an hour wait on a Saturday night. There is a comfortable waiting area though- Momofuku Bakery and Milk Bar, which can be found in the back. Specializing in sweets, cookies and ice cream,  you can easily spoil your appetite here - if you're into that sort of thing - I decided to hold out for their pork buns and fried brussels sprouts and they were well worth the wait.


HOT: Great for groups, with long tables and communal seating - also the best way to sample the entire menu - a goal of mine for 2010.

Must Try: Alas, we were a party of two and only able to try four of their dishes, three of which were instant favorites. Steamed pork buns were moist and savory - served with a personal bottle of hot sauce - awesome. Brussels sprouts are fried to a perfect crisp and served in a fish sauce vinaigrette - similar to 10 Downing's version and just as addictive. Their skate dish changed my life - crisp and tender like the best fried calamari you've ever had, served with old bay fries, spicy aioli and preserved lemon - it was heaven - and I will be going back to those pearly gates soon.

- The Heat


Momofuku Ssam Bar

207 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10003
(212) 254-3500

12.09.2009

A Hot Block: Eating My Way Down 7th Street

While on a walk with my dog in the East Village, I discovered a block littered with affordable restaurants whose names I recognized from my 'must try' list. Overly excited, I grabbed every take-out menu and began to plan my attack:

Mission: To eat at every restaurant on my list.
Results: I will report my findings via a new post next Wednesday.
Location: 7th street between 1st avenue and avenue A.
Itinerary: my plan

Tonight: Luke's A new addition to the battle of the lobster rolls, this tiny storefront claims to serve heaps of meat at wholesale prices with the help of the fratboy owner's lobster-hunting father in Maine.

Thursday: Caracas Arepa Bar What is an arepa? One description is a Venezuelan, stuffed, corn muffin. Another - a Latin Sloppy Joe. Well I like corn muffins and I like Sloppy Joe's. I'll let you know if I like arepas next week.

Friday:  Pylos "Rustic Greek Home Cooking". Long since gone are the days where we'd just call it GREEK, but I digress. The space is sleek and the menu arranged in a way that encourages the ordering of many little plates, allowing me to satisfy my cravings for moussaka, stuffed grape leaves, spanikopita, and tzatziki all in one seating. Because there just aren't enough good Greek places in NYC - and no, I'm not moving to Queens.

Saturday: 7A I ate a hungover brunch at 7A many, many moons ago and I was psyched to come across the bustling cafe again. I was a starving college student submitted to student cafeterias, so I fear my review would be stale and partly cloudy. My memory consists of a delicious plate of shrimp and avocado eggs benedict, a spicy bloody mary and a raging headache from my first encounter with mojitos. I'm excited for my second trip and the three other types of egg benedict to chose from - headache notwithstanding.

Sunday: Porchetta. As discussed, Sunday is the day of comfort food, and this Sunday I plan to stuff my face with pig. This place has gotten an absurd amount of press for their porchetta sandwich - a Sullivan St Bakery ciabatta roll stuffed full of their famous pork and made for walking. At $10 a pop, I think I'll get two and share with my trusty walking companion.

TBC'd

- The Heat

12.06.2009

Chili Season



Saturday was our annual Tree Cutting Party, where friends and family gather at a farm in Connecticut to eat, drink, chop and be merry - all in the spirit of Christmas.  Saturday was 40° with a wintery mix - what I consider prime chili weather.  We had about four different kinds of chili - turkey, beef, veggie, and three bean. Time to add one more to the mix - a family favorite. Lighter and healthier than it's other chili cousins, it's great as a mid-week lunch or dinner. Save time by shredding a rotisserie chicken from your local grocery rather than roasting your own. Hope you enjoy it as much as we did!


White Chicken Chili: Adapted from Cooks Illustrated's Recipe

Ingredients: Serves 6 to 8. 
  • 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breast halves
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 4 jalapeño chiles
  • 3 poblano chiles, cut into large pieces
  • 3 red peppers, cut into large pieces
  • 2 onions , cut into large pieces 
  • 6 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tablespoon ground cumin
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
  • 2 14.5oz. cans cannelli beans , drained and rinsed
  • 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
  •  tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
  • 4 scallions , white and light green parts sliced thin

Instructions

  1.  Season chicken liberally with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook without moving until skin is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Using tongs, turn chicken and lightly brown on other side, about 2 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate; remove and discard skin.
  2. While chicken is browning, remove and discard ribs and seeds from 2 jalapeños; mince flesh. In food processor, process the poblano chiles, red peppers and onions until consistency of chunky salsa.
  3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from Dutch oven (adding additional vegetable oil if necessary) and reduce heat to medium. Add minced jalapeños, chile-onion mixture, garlic, cumin, coriander, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables soften, about 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat.
  4. Transfer 1 cup cooked vegetable mixture to now-empty food processor workbowl. Add 1 cup beans and 1 cup broth and process until smooth, about 20 seconds. Add vegetable-bean mixture, remaining 2 cups broth, and chicken breasts to Dutch oven and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, about 15 to 20 minutes.
  5. Using tongs, transfer chicken to large plate. Stir in remaining beans and continue to simmer, uncovered, until beans are heated through and chili has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.
  6. Mince remaining jalapeño, reserving and mincing ribs and seeds, and set aside. When cool enough to handle, shred chicken into bite-sized pieces, discarding bones. Stir shredded chicken, lime juice, cilantro, scallions, and remaining minced jalapeño (with seeds if desired) into chili and return to simmer. Salt and pepper to taste.

    Have fun with your garnishes - I like to serve it with shredded monteray jack cheese and a squeeze of lime. Other ideas: sour cream, cilantro, crushed tortilla chips, red onion or scallions.







    - The Heat





Lemon Chicken with Roasted Root Vegetables


I cooked this on a cold, rainy weeknight for my book club and it turned out to be quite a hit. It's a simple recipe for roasted lemon chicken with root vegetables, but this time I cooked it on top of thick slices of country bread, which acted as a sponge for all the delicious juices. I had time to brine the chicken overnight, but it's totally optional. Brine or not, the end result will be a wonderfully browned chicken on top of the best crouton ever. Give it a try, but be forewarned: it smelled so good, a neighbor came a knockin'.

Lemon Chicken with Roasted Root Vegetables
  • 1 whole chicken (4-5lbs)
  • 2 lemons
  • 4 tbsp unsalted butter
  •  1 tsp dried herbs
  • kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  • country bread or any other hearty bread cut into thick 1.5" slices
  • handful of parsnips, carrots or other root vegetable of choice, cut into uniform sized spears
  • olive oil to drizzle
1. Preheat oven to 425.
2. Layer slices of bread on roasting pan and drizzle lightly with olive oil.
3. Soften unsalted butter (a few seconds in the microwave is sufficient) and add dried herbs.
4. Remove giblets from chicken, rinse with cold water and pat dry.
5. Cut one lemon in half and put in the bird's cavity.
6. Tie legs together with kitchen twine and place on top of bread and roasting pan.
7. Brush herb butter liberally over the chicken.
8. Thinly slice second lemon. Scatter root vegetables and lemon around the chicken.
9. Roast for 50-55 minutes, until bird is nice and browned.
10. Allow to sit outside of oven for ten minutes before carving.

And a book for dessert:

The Heat by Bill Buford
The Hunger by John DeLucie
Julie and Julia by Julie Powell

- The Heat

11.29.2009

Noodle Soup for the Sunday Soul


Ah Sunday - the day of rest. A day completely dedicated to rejuvenating one's body and soul. Sure, you can work out. Go for a run. Meditate. Read the bible. Or you can find some inner warmth with a bowl of noodle soup. We're not talking bland, boring chicken soup. Packaged soup won't do either. I'm talking about a hearty bowl of spicy, salty, savory, steaming, sleep inducing soup. Say that three times fast.

Over the past few weeks, I have dedicated much time and caloric intake to finding that perfect bowl of soup. Drum roll please...

The Winner: Ippudo
"Ramen is Japan's Comfort Food" says their website. No argument here. For 13 bucks I got my chi back in order with a bowl of their Akamaru Modern - a traditional tonkotsu soup of fragrant berkshire pork, cabbage, onions, kikurage (a type of mushroom I learned) topped with scallions. It's served in what looks like thirds, measured out by three different sauces floating in one bowl: garlic oil, miso paste and their own 'special sauce'. Who doesn't love special sauce? Cool your mouth off with their cucumber salad, a fresh, albeit salty cold appetizer. If you're feeling gluttonous, treat yourself to their kakuni, braised pork belly that will melt in your mouth and slide down directly to your hips.
    Hot: The waitstaff and chefs cheer enthusiastically upon entering the dining room, wiping away any remnants of your low self-esteem Sunday. However if Saturday night left you with a raging headache, you may want to get your noodles to go. The cheers continue all night at what seems like one minute intervals. Complimentary hot tea post meal helps settle the stomach.
    Cold: Ever popular amongst NYU students, there was a sufficient wait for a table. Curb your hunger at their Ramen noodle decorated bar (you'll just have to see if for yourself to understand) - an icy cold Japanese beer and a steamed pork roll from their bar menu will help ease the wait.

Runner-up: Noodle Bar falls in second because I find their broth bland. Excluding the wonderfully spicy/sweet Singapore Noodles, their broths call for a three-pronged attack with their alla cart sauce tray - holding Srircha, soy sauce and a house made chili oil. I find myself giving each bite a pour. It does allow you to control your salt intake as well as the heat, which some might find accommodating. Their lunch specials are also worth mentioning, where for $7.95 you get your choice of soup/salad and two spring rolls alongside your entree.
    Hot: Their cold sesame-peanut noodles are tops. A must try.
    Cold: The decor- minimal, but not in that 'oh, but it looks clean' way.

Honorable Mention: Sammy's Noodle Shop Again I found their broth to be bland and their noodles too dense, but their wok noodles hit home with some of my compadres - the lo mein being the show stopper here.

Write the Heat and tell us about your favorite noodle shop. Afterall - Sunday is only a week away.

- The Heat

11.23.2009

The Heat's Hottest Thanksgiving Recipes





The past month, anyone who has read a magazine, watched a cooking show, perused a food blog or picked up the newspaper has been littered with recipe ideas for their Thanksgiving meal. To say it is overwhelming is an enormous understatement, leaving most people to stick to what they know and prepare the same old same old. It's just EASIER. Until now.
I took the time to comb through some of the more popular media sources and then narrowed down my favorites of the year. Click on an item to see the link and full recipe to each. Try them all or try just one - but have fun with Thanksgiving this year by introducing something new.

Appetizers: I like to keep most appetizers light and low maintenance, allowing me to focus on the main act. The pecans and olives can be made ahead of time. The manchego looks fancy with a quick sauce. My one 'wow' appetizer is the oysters which are served with cucumber and pickled shallot relish - bright and tangy.
  Rosemary Pecans 
  Marinated Olives with Rosemary, Red Chili, Orange and Paprika
  Manchego with Honey Brown Butter Sauce
  Oysters Danish Style

The Main Act: The past few years my family has brined our turkey, which we feel adds a depth of flavor and more importantly, moist meat, as the salt draws in and retains water. I like Emeril's citrusy brine, followed by Giada's simple preparation.
  Giada's Turkey with Herbes de Provence and Citrus
  The Brine
Salads: Say goodbye to boring lettuce on this special day.
  Apple, Radish and Celery Salad
  Brussels Sprouts with Pecans and Cranberries
Condiments: Our family has outgrown canned cranberry, while herbed butter adds a little something extra. Two easy updates.
  Cranberry-Orange Sauce
  Herb butter (make extra for both the turkey and popovers)
Sides: I am sick of boring spuds. I like my mashed skins on with a hint of garlic and sweet potatoes get a touch of heat from chipotle, cooled off with a squirt of lime. Creamed onions get the boot and a health upgrade alla balsamic glaze. And finally, lets have some adult legumes. We don't need cream or casseroles to get them down the hatch - lighten up with minted peas or brown butter sugar snap peas decorated with pecans (I'll be throwing whatever is leftover from the rosemary pecan appetizer on top - so easy!)
  Chipotle Glazed Sweet Potatoes
  Garlic Red Bliss Mashed Potatoes
  Balsamic Glazed Pearl Onions
  Green Peas with Mint
  Brown Butter Sugar Snap Peas with Pecans
Stuffing/Dressing: I recently learned that stuffing is when it's IN the bird. Dressing cooked outside. Who knew?
  Sage, Sausage and Apple Dressing
  Toasted Chestnut Stuffing
Bread bowl: I know Pilsbury wants us to think that it's not Thanksgiving without crescent rolls, but I beg to differ -
  Parmesean popovers served with leftover herbed butter from turkey preparation
Desserts: I tend to save dessert for the following morning. Pumpkin pie and a cup of coffee? Yes please. So a mug of mulled hot apple cider is the perfect prelude to my tryptophan induced nap.
  Pumpkin Pie with Graham Cracker Crust
  Gingery Apple Crumb Pie
  Hot Mulled Apple Cider

Happy Thanksgiving!

- The Heat

11.22.2009

Little Giant's Big Brunch

Saturday morning brunch - what better way to relish the travails of your Friday night than over a bloody mary and a pile of eggs. A full belly, a nip with a side of casual conversation and next thing you know, you're back. Ready to rejoin the human race. Ready for Saturday night. An attitude adjustment in an hour and a half.  Magical.

I've found my happy place at Little Giant, an oxymoron meant to play on the big flavors served at this tiny corner storefront in the Lower East Side. The interior is homey, it's shelves covered with an array of kitchen wares, an exposed brick ceiling and a large wraparound bench that is littered with comfy pillows. It is the antithesis of a see and be seen brunch, where a side of anxiety is served with your cup of coffee. The menu is filled with market inspired, seasonal options like a duck confit BLT (bland) or the baked french toast served in a heart stopping brick with caramelized bananas and banana gelato.

I prefer their take on traditional breakfast items, such as lox and eggs served on a biali with a shmear, with pickled onions, capers and a salted tomato. Or their Trucker's Breakfast, a spin on an English breakfast, where scrambled eggs are served with broiled cremini mushrooms, a slab of bacon, and andouille sausage, topped with a tomato gravy on Texas toast. A side of molasses baked beans rounds out the mayhem. Most notable however, is their cheesy egg on a roll. The name suggests nothing spectacular, however they managed to perfect the basics of this traditional hangover cure. Eggs are softly scrambled and cheesy. Bacon is apple-wood smoked and crispy. Their roll is perfection - a fluffy, buttery Parker House roll has forever separated me from my usual Kaiser. Give it your all with a spicy bloody mary and a cup of their Stumptown Coffee - it's time for Saturday night.

- The Heat

Little Giant
85 Orchard Street (at Broome) (map)
212-226-5047

11.13.2009

The Quick and Dirty: Quartino

Sure, most of us want to eat organic all the time - I don't exactly enjoy ingesting pesticides. But to be honest - it's expensive and can be a real pain in the ass. In walks Quartino, a chic Italian restaurant in the Bowery, with an all organic menu. Hearty whole wheat pizzas, pastas and an array of fresh fish make it easy to walk out feeling good about yourself. As does the organic wine list.

Hot: The back garden is perfect on a warm night.

Cold: The complimentary wholewheat bread sticks almost broke my tooth off. Stale.

Must Try: Fresh homemade fettuccine with avocado and tomatoes. Shaved raw artichokes with lemon juice and parmesan reggiano. Pay attention to their daily specials for fresh, seasonal options.

Pre or post dinner drinks can be directed to Von, a few doors East of Quartino.

Quartino
11 Bleeker Street
New York, NY 10012-2402
(212) 529-5133

11.12.2009

Stir Fry Your Way Back to Health


A dear friend of mine is going through his semi-annual life overhaul - revamping his eating, drinking, sleeping and exercising habits in an attempt to undo the damage of the past 6mos. We've all been there, but few of us actually execute our plan longer than a weekend. Not this guy. Four months later, he's a completely new person - healthy, well rested and ready to get after it again. We all know NYC can do some serious damage to one's body and soul - who needs New Years Eve to start afresh?

He asked me to send him a healthy stir fry recipe to start him on his path - here are two of my favorites.

Teriyaki Pork and Mango Stir-Fry: (found in Rachel Ray Mag - dont judge)
Serves 4

1lb boneless pork chops pounded thin
1/2 cup flour
2tsp salt
1/4 vegetable oil
1 small head cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 one-inch piece of fresh ginger, finely copped (store remaining root in freezer to keep)
3 tbsp teriyaki sauce
2 mangoes, cut into matchsticks
2 cups bean sprouts

1. Slice thin chops into 1/4 inch thick strips. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the flour and salt; add meat and toss to coat.
2. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 3tbpn of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Shake off any excess flour from the meat and arrange in a single layer in the skillet. Cook until browned and crisp on one side, about 3min; turn and cook, stirring until browned all over, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
3. Add the remaining 1tbsp of oil and the cabbage to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage begins to brown, 2 to 3min. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring for about 30 seconds. Stir in the teriyaki sauce, then toss with the pork and mangoes. Top with bean sprouts.

Serve with steamed brown rice.

Szechuan Chicken Stir-Fry: (adapted from Canyon Ranch's Cookbook)
Serves four (390 calories, 10gm. fat)

Marinade:
1/4 cup low-sodium tamari (soy) sauce
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1 tsp sambal or Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon fresh ginger minced
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil

4 skinless chicken breast halves, diced
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon water
1/2 teaspoon canola oil
1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 red bell pepper, cleaned, seeded and diced
2 cups snow peas
1 cup diced jicama
2 cups shredded cabbage
2 cups cooked brown rice
1 tablespoon fresh basil

1) In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients for marinade and mix well. Divide in half.
2) Place half of marinade in a ziplock bag, add chicken and marinate for at least 2hrs
3) Combine cornstarch with 1 teaspoon water in a small bowl and add remaining marinade. Mix well.
4) Preheat wok or large skillet. Add marinated chicken and stir-fry for 2-3minutes until cooked through.   Remove from wok and reserve. Discard used marinade.
5) Add canola oil to wok. Add chili flakes and ginger and cook briefly. Add bell pepper, snow peas, and jicama. Stir-fry until color brightens and vegetables are tender crisp, about 1-2 minutes. Add cabbage and chicken. Stir-fry until cabbage wilts. Pour marinade/cornstarch mixture around edges of wok and stir-fry briefly to coat vegetables. Remove from heat and serve over brown rice. Garnish with basil.

To your health!

The Heat

11.10.2009

Living Out My Fantasy at the Highlands


If you aren't familiar with the Outlander series by Diana Gabaldon, much of what I'm about to say is going to fly right over your head. More importantly though, you are missing out on one of the best love stories of all time. Taking place in 18th century Scotland, the main character Claire Beauchamp gets swept off her feet by a Highland warrior named Jamie Fraser. Think Mel Gibson in Braveheart...with a fire bush.It's the type of love story that women would travel to Scotland to find - but hold off on that flight ladies, b/c the Highlands just came to the West Village.

The barkeeps have such thick brogues, I giggled and nodded like a schoolgirl at everything they said. They could have been telling me I have a booger in my nose and I would have smiled and nodded an emphatic 'yes!'.  But I promise you there is more to the allure of the Highlands than the prospect of shagging a Scottish bartender.

To start, you won't be cramped - with a huge wrap-around bar and a separate room for waitress service, it's big enough to keep everyone cool and spaced out, but doesn't lose any of the intimacy you look for in a West Village bar. The decor is like my ideal livingroom - exposed brick, comfy couches, great lighting, mounted buck heads - put your feet up and stay awhile. Cuddle up with a bowl of their curried squash soup, topped with creme fraiche and served with a hearty, health-grain roll. Wash it down with a fresh and tangy raspberry-Thai-basil whiskey sour - a popular choice in my crowd. As for me - well, I stuck with something a tad simpler and much easier to communicate - a crisp glass of Sauvignon Blanc served with a side of school girl giggles.

The Heat

The Highlands
150 W. 10th St
New York, NY
212-229-2670


Read them now, thank me later

11.06.2009

Say You're Sorry with Scallops: Seared Scallops with Pumpkin Soup

I scored this recipe from a former colleague who clipped it out of Men's Health to cook his wife an "I'm Sorry Dinner". The story is that he came home plastered and fell on her while he was taking his pants off, not only crushing/waking her, but simultaneously unplugging their alarm clock, causing his wife to be three hours late to work. But all was well and good by the weekend with the help of this delightful dish - which every guy in the office now has a copy of...in case of emergency.

Seared Scallops With Pumpkin Soup

Recipe makes 2 servings

25 min
10 min prep

Ingredients
12 ounces fresh sea scallops
1 (15 ounce) can unflavored pumpkin puree
2 tablespoons roughly chopped hazelnuts, toasted
8-10 chopped chives
1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper
 
Directions

1. Combine pumpkin, honey, butter, and broth in a medium saucepan and heat on low until completely warmed. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm.

2. Preheat a cast iron skillet or saute pan over medium-high heat.

3. Pat scallops dry with a paper towel and season them with salt and pepper.

4. Add the oil to the pan, then scallops.

5. Cook scallops 2-3 minutes per side or until they are firm, brown, and carmelized.

6. Pour soup into a wide-rimmed bowl.

7. Add scallops, hazelnuts, and chives.

8. Serve with a side of foot massage.

Good luck!

- The Heat

11.02.2009

The Quick and Dirty: Alta

 A romantic tapas bar in the West Village. Set in an open, bi-level townhouse on w.10th street, Alta's fireplace and stoned walls, create a cozy, South American inspired atmosphere.The food, while not traditional Spanish, is fun and inventive. Fried goat cheese with lavender infused honey. Crispy brussels sprouts with fuji apples, creme fraiche and pistachios. Grilled gulf shrimp and chorizo skewers with avocado creme, warm garlic and sherry vinaigrette. Good luck narrowing down your order.

Best to go with a handful of friends and make your way through their extensive menu at one of their long, rustic tables, perfect for groups.


Hot: The bar - generous in size, but still cozy, it's where tapas are meant to be munched.

Cold: The Mexican music they blasted throughout the restaurant - and no, it was NOT salsa.

Must Try: Recommended by our waitress, the best dish of the night was the Spaghetti Pepperoncini. Back the truck up - spaghetti at a tapas place? Crazy, I know. And especially since I only recognized roughly half of the ingredients in the dish (bottarga di muggine, dried bonito, shrimp oil, pepper cress?) - but the waitress wins this one. It was a hit.

Alta
64 W 10th St
New York, NY 10011-8702
(212) 505-7777



- The Heat

10.29.2009

I'll Have the Seafood Sundae Please: Eating Dessert at Pearl Oyster Bar


Excuse me, I thought I ordered the seafood platter. What the heck is this?

Our dinner started off shaky when I was handed what looked like an ice cream sundae made up of oysters and clams. It even came with the long spoon normally used to scrape out that last bite of hot fudge - this time we used it to fish out that lone oyster, floating in a pool of murky seawater. Sort of gross, even for this fish monger.

The rest of the meal was a delight. The pan roasted scallop entree was generous in size and perfectly caramelized. But the real attention should be paid to their lobster roll. I rank it in my top three, alongside Duryea's and Lunch in Montauk. I have yet to try Mary's - and look forward to the West Village faceoff. Pearl's lobster roll was huge and generously stuffed with lobster meat. The salad a perfect consistency of mayo-y goodness.  Served on a nest of addicting shoestring fries - salty, crispy heaven - they were the perfect pair.

That lobster roll explains the wait. The place is perpetually packed and doesn't take reservations. Keep your party small and just grab a seat at the bar. Quicker seating, quicker service and a quicker way to those shoestring fries.


Pearl Oyster Bar
http://www.pearloysterbar.com/
18 Cornelia St
New York, NY 10014-4138
(212) 691-8211

10.24.2009

Fire me up some Ancho Chicken Tortilla Soup

Ancho Chicken Tortilla Soup
Don't be intimidated by the unfamiliar ingredient in the title. This is a quick soup that tastes more complex than it actually it is. The addition of Ancho Peppers to traditional chicken tortilla soup lends a sweetness and depth of flavor your guests will marvel at. Dried ancho chillies are the mildest of the chilli peppers. They can be found in most gourmet food stores, though in a pinch, you can pan roast a few poblano peppers, as ancho chillies are just their dried variety. Fire it up!


Ingredients:

6 (6-inch) flour tortillas
Cooking spray
2 large ancho chiles, seeded and stemmed
1 quart chicken stock
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 ears corn on the cob, husked, kernels removed or 1 cup frozen kernels, defrosted
1 large red onion, chopped
1 jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped
1 red chile pepper, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoons smoked sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 (28-ounce) can fire roasted diced or crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon honey
1 rotisserie chicken, skinned and shredded
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 cups water
2 limes
2 ripe Hass avocados, halved
Sour cream, for garnish
Cilantro leaves, for garnish

Directions

Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Slice the tortillas into 1/2-inch strips and scatter on large baking sheet. Spray with cooking spray and bake until golden and crisp. Remove from the oven and reserve.

While the tortillas crisp, add the ancho chiles and the chicken stock to a large pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chiles are tender. Remove from the heat to cool.

While the anchos simmer, heat a medium soup pot with vegetable oil over high heat. Add the corn and saute until charred at the edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat a little, add the onions, jalapeno, red chile pepper and garlic. Season with cumin, smoked paprika and cinnamon. Saute for 5 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes.

Puree the anchos and the stock in a food processor, then add it to the soup pot. Stir in the honey and the shredded chicken and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Thin the soup with 1 or 2 cups of water and simmer over low heat to combine flavors, about 5 minutes.

Zest and juice 1 lime and add to the soup pot. Seed and dice the avocados and add to a small bowl. Dress with the juice of the remaining lime.

Pile some crispy tortilla strips into each soup bowl. Top with diced avocado and ladle the soup over the avocado. Garnish with sour cream and whole or chopped cilantro leaves.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/rachael-ray/ancho-chicken-tortilla-soup-recipe2/index.html

Left over anchos? They make a fantastic rub. Great on shrimp or pork. I like this recipe from Tyler Florence:
Slow Grilled Ancho Rubbed Pork
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/tyler-florence/slow-grilled-ancho-rubbed-pork-recipe/index.html

10.20.2009

Apotheke: Legitimizing my "Health Drink"


Health Drink [helth dringk]   Noun.
   1. A drink that restores soundness of body or mind; freedom from disease or ailment: normally after a night of binge drinking.
   2. Any drink before noon.
   3. An alcoholic drink you pass off as part of your recommended five servings of vegetables and fruit, due to that delightful splash of cran. You know who you are.
Origin: Whoever invented the Bloody Mary. My hero.
Synonyms: the hair of the dog; pick-me-up; refresher; lifesaver.
Based on the Random HEAT Dictionary.

Drink to your health!! 
Just the excuse we all need. And it's the excuse for Apotheke, a speakeasy tucked away on the most random street in Chinatown. Looking like tourists, we were finally showed the front door, thanks to the help of a kind local, who knew where our destination had to be. Because we certainly weren't shopping for daikon at 11pm on a Saturday.
It wasn't easy to find, but opium dens don't exactly advertise, and Apotheke set up shop in an abandoned one on Doyers Street. This time around, 250 cocktails replace the hallucinogenic. Although absinthe cocktails can be found on the menu, under the heading Euphoric Enhancers. Other cocktail categories include Health and Beauty (cucumber, lychee, rose hips), Pain Killers (spicy, pepper laden), Stress Relief (chamomile, lavender infused), Aphrodisiacs (bubbly and cognac) Stimulants (espresso laden), and Pharmaceuticals (herbal remedies). I was particularly fond of the Lychee Three Ways, a health and beauty enhancer that made my skin glow!  ...I swear it wasn't sweat. 
Hidden and secret it is not - jam packed with a line of eager patrons outside, tolerating the rain. Alas, there ain't much else going on in Chinatown late on a Saturday night. Unless you like daikon.
Apotheke
9 Doyers Street
http://www.apothekebar.com/


10.19.2009

Dear HEAT, What's Hot?


Dear HEAT,

We are:
Three New York guys are taking out three girls from philly who are visiting for the weekend. Only one of us has met one of the girls, so the other 4 people involved have never met each other.


We want:
Neighborhood downtown on the westside
Price range either cheap and chic or the appearence of high roller with out spending too much $$
Somewhere nearby to keep the cocktails flowing!


What's HOT?
 
Wilfe and Nell: 228 W. 4th St., nr. Seventh Ave.

West Village gastropub with surprisingly good food, great drinks and solid beer selection. It's almost always bumping with a good crowd and has long wood communal tables, perfect for your party size. It's just noisy enough to drown out those awkward pauses and definitely encourages a party atmosphere. Plus the Philly girls can feel at home with the cheese steak's Irish cousin: the corned beef sandwich. Covered in gruyere cheese and served with THE BEST pickles from a neighboring borough, it's a sure thing. It's also located on a great block for post dinner drinks if you want a change of scenery after dinner. There's a nice cocktail bar across the street that is usually spewing with people as well as a fun tequila lounge called Diable Royale, where you MUST get their house drink: the Ricky. 1/4 frozen margarita, 3/4 mexican beer. Goodnight!

Keste Pizza e Vino: 271 Bleecker St., near Morton

Out of towners almost always come to NYC looking for a good slice - if you want to make a night of it, this is the place. It gets a young, west village crowd looking for carafe's of good wine and gourmet pizza. Your choices run from your basic Margharita with grape tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil, to a little more off the run options like the Pizza de Papa: butternut squash cream, imported smoked mozzarella, and artichokes. It's small and lively - which means there's normally a crowd waiting to sit, so make sure to have a reservation. Grab a beer afterwards at Vol de Nuit, a Belgian beer lounge found in an old carriage house, with an outdoor courtyard and multiple bars: 148 W. 4th at 6th Ave.

Or for a taste of home, take the girls to THE Philadelphia Eagles bar: Town Tavern, but dont tell them I sent you.
Floriencia 13: 185 Sullivan St., near Bleeker St

Nothing breaks down the barriers quite like tequila. If you need another reason to go, the food is pretty legit as well. Mexican food with a Californian flare means you wont feel like a complete glutton when you leave. They also play a good soundtrack and lure a fun crowd. My choice for after dinner drinks would be Little Branch, a speakeasy on Leroy St and 7th ave that specializes in fantastic cocktails and live jazz music. If you're looking for something a little more lively and a little less classy, The Back Fence will suit the bill. Just dirty enough to allow the full effects of the tequila to come through, it's a red neck inspired bar with raging music that you'll find just down the street: 155 Bleeker St

Some more food for thought:

Otto Enoteca Pizzeria: another pizza option by Mario Batali, caters to large crowds
Alta: small plate Italian
Barbuto: classic italian
BLT Burger: b/c who doesnt love a good burger
Extra Virgin: American fare with a Mediterranean twist - great neighborhood, good crowd

- The HEAT

10.17.2009

It's Cold and I'm Hungry: a Recurring Theme

Is it me or did it become January overnight? Here's how I'm beating the cold...







Warm me up with Beef Stroganoff:

Ingredients:  Serves 4

3/4    pound beef tenderloin (about 2 fillets), cut into 1/2-inch long, 1/8-inch wide strips
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil     
12     ounces white button mushrooms, wiped clean and cut into uniform pieces  
1/2    cup beef broth     
1       tablespoon unsalted butter    
1       small onion , minced (1/2 cup)
1       teaspoon tomato paste 
1 1/2 teaspoons dark brown sugar    
1       tablespoon all-purpose flour       
1/2    cup chicken broth  
1/2    cup dry white wine    
1/3    cup sour cream, warmed to prevent curdling when added to the hot liquid
8       ounces egg noodles , cooked in salted water, drained, and tossed with 2 tablespoons butter     
         kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


1. Heat 1 tbsp oil in heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering, but not smoking, about 2 minutes; swirl to coat pan. Add mushrooms and cook over high heat without stirring for 30 seconds; season with salt and pepper and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are lightly browned, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer to medium bowl.

2. Return skillet to high heat, add remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil; swirl to coat pan. Place tenderloin strips in skillet. Using tongs, spread the meat into single layer, making sure that strips do not touch, and cook without turning until well-browned on first side, 2 minutes. Turn strips and cook on second side until well-browned, about 1 minute longer. Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to bowl with mushrooms.

3. Add beef broth to skillet, scraping up browned bits on pan bottom with wooden spoon; simmer until broth is reduced to 1/4 cup, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer broth to bowl with mushrooms and beef, scraping skillet clean with rubber spatula.

4. Return skillet to medium-low heat and add butter; when butter foams, add onion, tomato paste, and brown sugar. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is lightly browned and softened, about 6 minutes; stir in flour until incorporated. Gradually whisk in chicken broth and wine; increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil, whisking occasionally, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Whisk liquid from mushrooms and beef into sauce and simmer to incorporate. Stir about 1/2 cup of hot sauce into sour cream, then stir mixture back into sauce. Add mushrooms and beef; heat to warm through, about 1 minute. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper and serve over buttered egg noodles.

Here's a fancier version of Beef Stroganoff I'm dying to try from Tyler's Ultimate. I particularly like the use of short ribs instead of fillet...as well as the kick of dijon in the sour cream.




10.15.2009

Keste Pizza & Vino



A new addition to the west village's fierce competition for the best pizza - all of which claim they are THE BEST pizza, citing the unofficial and dare I say arbitrary, awards they have won in years past. All formally presented on an erasable chalk board.

John's: Best brick-oven (but NO SLICES!! Which was screamed at me soup-nazi style, circa 4am)
Bleeker St.: 'Best pizza' by the Food Network. And by Kelly Ripa? C'mon, a pizza expert at 65lbs? Flag.
Spunto: Best pizza served on a cracker - I told you they were arbitrary.

And now Keste: Ranked #1 by New York Magazine. This immediately put on a chalkboard outside.

Was it the best pizza I have ever eaten? No. But I have also deemed every slice post 2am THE BEST pizza I have ever had. It's all about what you're looking for: Are you jonesin' for a traditional slice of NYC, oozing with cheese and a slightly charred, chewy crust? Or maybe it's a nice night with a gourmet pie and a bottle of wine. Perhaps it's a few slices of thin crust for lunch, to avoid the impending food coma. Or are you just that drunk that 'best' would be defined as a slice as big as your face? (A pizzeria down in our nation's capital deserves a shoutout here - The Jumbo Slice of Adam's Morgan - which put my large noggin to shame).

My point being, I treat pizza like I do eggs: sometimes I want 'em poached and served with a side of hollandaise - and other days I just need a nice scramble. We all have our favorites and we all have our places. So if you find yourself craving a Neapolitan pie with artichokes, smoked mozzarella, red and yellow peppers and a healthy smattering of butternut squash cream...well then it's a Keste day my friend.

- The Heat

For nymag's take on the top 20 pizzas in NYC: http://nymag.com/restaurants/cheapeats/2009/57893/


Keste Pizza & Vino 
http://www.kestepizzeria.com/
271 Bleecker St
New York, NY 10014-4102
(212) 243-1500

10.12.2009

The Quick and Dirty: the New Ashiya - Sushi with a Side of Frat Boy


Ever fantasize about eating raw fish in the middle of a frat party? Well Cybil, your dream is now reality. 


Passable sushi and all you can drink sake bombs are enough to lure recent grads from their seats at Dorrian's to check out the East Village. Okay okay - I'm sorry for all the stereotyping - some had to have been from 'boken too. 


Hot: Be as noisy and drunk as you want - they wont bat an eyelash. 


Cold: Everyone else is being as noisy and drunk as they want. You have been warned.


Must try: Stick with the house special rolls - the Sunset Roll in particular was a real crowd pleaser. Although that was after about 6 pitchers of beer, so it's all relative.


The New Ashiya
167 First Ave near 10th Street
website:  www.ashiya2.com

10.06.2009

It's Official: My Favorite Season Has Arrived


For some it's the autumnal equinox. For me its butternut squash. Whatever way marks the beginning of Fall for you, celebrate it with my favorite autumnal dish: Butternut Squash Soup. Here are two versions for you to try: Heart Healthy and Heart Happy.  Enjoy!


 Heart Happy: (adapted from Thomas Keller's recipe that includes browned butter, sage, and nutmeg creme fraiche)



One 3-3 1/2-pound butternut squash
2 tablespoons canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sage sprigs
1 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) leeks, white and light green parts only
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) carrots
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) shallots
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch) onions
6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons honey
6 cups vegetable stock, plus extra if necessary
Bouquet Garni, using 8 thyme sprigs, 2 Italian parsley sprigs, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
1/4 cup creme fraiche
Freshly grated nutmeg
Canola oil (if using sage leaves)
8 sage leaves or 1 tablespoon minced chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

For the soup: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil. Chop the neck off of the squash and set aside. Cut the bulb in half and scoop out the seeds. Brush each half all over with 1 1/2 teaspoons of canola oil. Sprinkle the cavities with salt and pepper, and place a sage sprig into each. Place cut side down on baking sheet and bake for 1 hour, or until very tender.

Remove squash from oven and let cool until it can be handled. Scoop out the flesh and reserve, discarding the sage.

In the meantime, with a paring knife or a sharp vegetable peeler, peel away the skin from the reserved neck of the squash, until you reach the bright orange flesh. Cut the squash into roughly 1/2-inch pieces. It should yield about 4 cups.

Put 1 tablespoon canola oil in a stockpot over medium high heat. Add leeks, carrots, and onions. Cook, stirring often, for about 6 minutes. Add the diced squash, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook gently for 3 minutes. Reduce heat as necessary to keep garlic and squash from coloring. Add honey, and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add stock and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until squash is tender.

Add the reserved roasted squash and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and discard the bouquet garni.

Puree the soup in a blender or with an immersion blender. Strain the soup through a fine strainer. Adjust the seasoning. If soup is too thick, add more stock.

To complete: Whisk creme fraiche in a small chilled metal bowl, and add nutmeg to taste. Whisk until it holds a shape.

Heat a medium skillet over high heat. When very hot, add butter. Rotate the pan over the heat as necessary to brown the butter evenly. Scrape any bits that settle on the bottom. When the foaming has subsided, and the butter smells nutty, add it to the soup.

Meanwhile, if using the sage leaves, heat 1/8 inch of canola oil in a small skillet. When very hot, add sage leaves and cook 30 seconds or so, turning the leaves to crisp them on both sides. They're ready when the bubbling stops. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt.

Ladle soup into 4 bowls. Top with a dollop of creme fraiche. Grind black pepper over the top, and garnish with sage leaves or minced chives. Drizzle olive oil over the top.


Heart Healthy: an apple a day...


For this recipe, I substitute caramelized onions for leeks and add a few apples for a touch of sweetness. The directions are similar to those above - but simpler!


One 3-3 1/2-pound butternut squash
3 medium sized apples, cored, peeled and diced (I used Honey Crisp). Optional: set aside a few tablespoons to top the soup with, squirt with some lemon juice to keep from browning.
1 large onion, finely chopped (vidalia's are nice and sweet)
1/2 cup thinly sliced carrots
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons honey
6 cups vegetable stock, plus extra if necessary
Bouquet Garni, using 8 thyme sprigs, 2 Italian parsley sprigs, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
2 sage sprigs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 tsp of freshly ground nutmeg

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil. Chop the neck off of the squash and set aside. Cut the bulb in half and scoop out the seeds. Brush each half all over with 1 1/2 teaspoons of canola oil. Sprinkle the cavities with salt and pepper, and place a sage sprig into each. Place cut side down on baking sheet and bake for 1 hour, or until very tender.


Remove squash from oven and let cool until it can be handled. Scoop out the flesh and reserve, discarding the sage.

In the meantime, with a paring knife or a sharp vegetable peeler, peel away the skin from the reserved neck of the squash, until you reach the bright orange flesh. Cut the squash into roughly 1/2-inch pieces. It should yield about 4 cups.

Put 1 tablespoon canola oil in a stockpot over medium high heat. Add carrots, and onions. Cook, stirring often, for about 6 minutes. Add the diced squash, apples, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook gently for 3 minutes. Reduce heat as necessary to keep garlic and squash from coloring. Add honey, and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add stock and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until squash is tender.
Add the reserved roasted squash and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and discard the bouquet garni.

Puree the soup in a blender or with an immersion blender. Strain the soup through a fine strainer. Adjust the seasoning. If soup is too thick, add more stock.

To complete: I like to serve it with a tablespoon of finely diced apples in the middle, topped with some freshly grated nutmeg.


Happy Fall!
-The Heat