10.29.2009

I'll Have the Seafood Sundae Please: Eating Dessert at Pearl Oyster Bar


Excuse me, I thought I ordered the seafood platter. What the heck is this?

Our dinner started off shaky when I was handed what looked like an ice cream sundae made up of oysters and clams. It even came with the long spoon normally used to scrape out that last bite of hot fudge - this time we used it to fish out that lone oyster, floating in a pool of murky seawater. Sort of gross, even for this fish monger.

The rest of the meal was a delight. The pan roasted scallop entree was generous in size and perfectly caramelized. But the real attention should be paid to their lobster roll. I rank it in my top three, alongside Duryea's and Lunch in Montauk. I have yet to try Mary's - and look forward to the West Village faceoff. Pearl's lobster roll was huge and generously stuffed with lobster meat. The salad a perfect consistency of mayo-y goodness.  Served on a nest of addicting shoestring fries - salty, crispy heaven - they were the perfect pair.

That lobster roll explains the wait. The place is perpetually packed and doesn't take reservations. Keep your party small and just grab a seat at the bar. Quicker seating, quicker service and a quicker way to those shoestring fries.


Pearl Oyster Bar
http://www.pearloysterbar.com/
18 Cornelia St
New York, NY 10014-4138
(212) 691-8211

10.24.2009

Fire me up some Ancho Chicken Tortilla Soup

Ancho Chicken Tortilla Soup
Don't be intimidated by the unfamiliar ingredient in the title. This is a quick soup that tastes more complex than it actually it is. The addition of Ancho Peppers to traditional chicken tortilla soup lends a sweetness and depth of flavor your guests will marvel at. Dried ancho chillies are the mildest of the chilli peppers. They can be found in most gourmet food stores, though in a pinch, you can pan roast a few poblano peppers, as ancho chillies are just their dried variety. Fire it up!


Ingredients:

6 (6-inch) flour tortillas
Cooking spray
2 large ancho chiles, seeded and stemmed
1 quart chicken stock
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 ears corn on the cob, husked, kernels removed or 1 cup frozen kernels, defrosted
1 large red onion, chopped
1 jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped
1 red chile pepper, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoons smoked sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 (28-ounce) can fire roasted diced or crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon honey
1 rotisserie chicken, skinned and shredded
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 cups water
2 limes
2 ripe Hass avocados, halved
Sour cream, for garnish
Cilantro leaves, for garnish

Directions

Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Slice the tortillas into 1/2-inch strips and scatter on large baking sheet. Spray with cooking spray and bake until golden and crisp. Remove from the oven and reserve.

While the tortillas crisp, add the ancho chiles and the chicken stock to a large pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chiles are tender. Remove from the heat to cool.

While the anchos simmer, heat a medium soup pot with vegetable oil over high heat. Add the corn and saute until charred at the edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat a little, add the onions, jalapeno, red chile pepper and garlic. Season with cumin, smoked paprika and cinnamon. Saute for 5 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes.

Puree the anchos and the stock in a food processor, then add it to the soup pot. Stir in the honey and the shredded chicken and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Thin the soup with 1 or 2 cups of water and simmer over low heat to combine flavors, about 5 minutes.

Zest and juice 1 lime and add to the soup pot. Seed and dice the avocados and add to a small bowl. Dress with the juice of the remaining lime.

Pile some crispy tortilla strips into each soup bowl. Top with diced avocado and ladle the soup over the avocado. Garnish with sour cream and whole or chopped cilantro leaves.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/rachael-ray/ancho-chicken-tortilla-soup-recipe2/index.html

Left over anchos? They make a fantastic rub. Great on shrimp or pork. I like this recipe from Tyler Florence:
Slow Grilled Ancho Rubbed Pork
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/tyler-florence/slow-grilled-ancho-rubbed-pork-recipe/index.html

10.20.2009

Apotheke: Legitimizing my "Health Drink"


Health Drink [helth dringk]   Noun.
   1. A drink that restores soundness of body or mind; freedom from disease or ailment: normally after a night of binge drinking.
   2. Any drink before noon.
   3. An alcoholic drink you pass off as part of your recommended five servings of vegetables and fruit, due to that delightful splash of cran. You know who you are.
Origin: Whoever invented the Bloody Mary. My hero.
Synonyms: the hair of the dog; pick-me-up; refresher; lifesaver.
Based on the Random HEAT Dictionary.

Drink to your health!! 
Just the excuse we all need. And it's the excuse for Apotheke, a speakeasy tucked away on the most random street in Chinatown. Looking like tourists, we were finally showed the front door, thanks to the help of a kind local, who knew where our destination had to be. Because we certainly weren't shopping for daikon at 11pm on a Saturday.
It wasn't easy to find, but opium dens don't exactly advertise, and Apotheke set up shop in an abandoned one on Doyers Street. This time around, 250 cocktails replace the hallucinogenic. Although absinthe cocktails can be found on the menu, under the heading Euphoric Enhancers. Other cocktail categories include Health and Beauty (cucumber, lychee, rose hips), Pain Killers (spicy, pepper laden), Stress Relief (chamomile, lavender infused), Aphrodisiacs (bubbly and cognac) Stimulants (espresso laden), and Pharmaceuticals (herbal remedies). I was particularly fond of the Lychee Three Ways, a health and beauty enhancer that made my skin glow!  ...I swear it wasn't sweat. 
Hidden and secret it is not - jam packed with a line of eager patrons outside, tolerating the rain. Alas, there ain't much else going on in Chinatown late on a Saturday night. Unless you like daikon.
Apotheke
9 Doyers Street
http://www.apothekebar.com/


10.19.2009

Dear HEAT, What's Hot?


Dear HEAT,

We are:
Three New York guys are taking out three girls from philly who are visiting for the weekend. Only one of us has met one of the girls, so the other 4 people involved have never met each other.


We want:
Neighborhood downtown on the westside
Price range either cheap and chic or the appearence of high roller with out spending too much $$
Somewhere nearby to keep the cocktails flowing!


What's HOT?
 
Wilfe and Nell: 228 W. 4th St., nr. Seventh Ave.

West Village gastropub with surprisingly good food, great drinks and solid beer selection. It's almost always bumping with a good crowd and has long wood communal tables, perfect for your party size. It's just noisy enough to drown out those awkward pauses and definitely encourages a party atmosphere. Plus the Philly girls can feel at home with the cheese steak's Irish cousin: the corned beef sandwich. Covered in gruyere cheese and served with THE BEST pickles from a neighboring borough, it's a sure thing. It's also located on a great block for post dinner drinks if you want a change of scenery after dinner. There's a nice cocktail bar across the street that is usually spewing with people as well as a fun tequila lounge called Diable Royale, where you MUST get their house drink: the Ricky. 1/4 frozen margarita, 3/4 mexican beer. Goodnight!

Keste Pizza e Vino: 271 Bleecker St., near Morton

Out of towners almost always come to NYC looking for a good slice - if you want to make a night of it, this is the place. It gets a young, west village crowd looking for carafe's of good wine and gourmet pizza. Your choices run from your basic Margharita with grape tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil, to a little more off the run options like the Pizza de Papa: butternut squash cream, imported smoked mozzarella, and artichokes. It's small and lively - which means there's normally a crowd waiting to sit, so make sure to have a reservation. Grab a beer afterwards at Vol de Nuit, a Belgian beer lounge found in an old carriage house, with an outdoor courtyard and multiple bars: 148 W. 4th at 6th Ave.

Or for a taste of home, take the girls to THE Philadelphia Eagles bar: Town Tavern, but dont tell them I sent you.
Floriencia 13: 185 Sullivan St., near Bleeker St

Nothing breaks down the barriers quite like tequila. If you need another reason to go, the food is pretty legit as well. Mexican food with a Californian flare means you wont feel like a complete glutton when you leave. They also play a good soundtrack and lure a fun crowd. My choice for after dinner drinks would be Little Branch, a speakeasy on Leroy St and 7th ave that specializes in fantastic cocktails and live jazz music. If you're looking for something a little more lively and a little less classy, The Back Fence will suit the bill. Just dirty enough to allow the full effects of the tequila to come through, it's a red neck inspired bar with raging music that you'll find just down the street: 155 Bleeker St

Some more food for thought:

Otto Enoteca Pizzeria: another pizza option by Mario Batali, caters to large crowds
Alta: small plate Italian
Barbuto: classic italian
BLT Burger: b/c who doesnt love a good burger
Extra Virgin: American fare with a Mediterranean twist - great neighborhood, good crowd

- The HEAT

10.17.2009

It's Cold and I'm Hungry: a Recurring Theme

Is it me or did it become January overnight? Here's how I'm beating the cold...







Warm me up with Beef Stroganoff:

Ingredients:  Serves 4

3/4    pound beef tenderloin (about 2 fillets), cut into 1/2-inch long, 1/8-inch wide strips
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil     
12     ounces white button mushrooms, wiped clean and cut into uniform pieces  
1/2    cup beef broth     
1       tablespoon unsalted butter    
1       small onion , minced (1/2 cup)
1       teaspoon tomato paste 
1 1/2 teaspoons dark brown sugar    
1       tablespoon all-purpose flour       
1/2    cup chicken broth  
1/2    cup dry white wine    
1/3    cup sour cream, warmed to prevent curdling when added to the hot liquid
8       ounces egg noodles , cooked in salted water, drained, and tossed with 2 tablespoons butter     
         kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


1. Heat 1 tbsp oil in heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering, but not smoking, about 2 minutes; swirl to coat pan. Add mushrooms and cook over high heat without stirring for 30 seconds; season with salt and pepper and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are lightly browned, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer to medium bowl.

2. Return skillet to high heat, add remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil; swirl to coat pan. Place tenderloin strips in skillet. Using tongs, spread the meat into single layer, making sure that strips do not touch, and cook without turning until well-browned on first side, 2 minutes. Turn strips and cook on second side until well-browned, about 1 minute longer. Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to bowl with mushrooms.

3. Add beef broth to skillet, scraping up browned bits on pan bottom with wooden spoon; simmer until broth is reduced to 1/4 cup, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer broth to bowl with mushrooms and beef, scraping skillet clean with rubber spatula.

4. Return skillet to medium-low heat and add butter; when butter foams, add onion, tomato paste, and brown sugar. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is lightly browned and softened, about 6 minutes; stir in flour until incorporated. Gradually whisk in chicken broth and wine; increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil, whisking occasionally, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Whisk liquid from mushrooms and beef into sauce and simmer to incorporate. Stir about 1/2 cup of hot sauce into sour cream, then stir mixture back into sauce. Add mushrooms and beef; heat to warm through, about 1 minute. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper and serve over buttered egg noodles.

Here's a fancier version of Beef Stroganoff I'm dying to try from Tyler's Ultimate. I particularly like the use of short ribs instead of fillet...as well as the kick of dijon in the sour cream.




10.15.2009

Keste Pizza & Vino



A new addition to the west village's fierce competition for the best pizza - all of which claim they are THE BEST pizza, citing the unofficial and dare I say arbitrary, awards they have won in years past. All formally presented on an erasable chalk board.

John's: Best brick-oven (but NO SLICES!! Which was screamed at me soup-nazi style, circa 4am)
Bleeker St.: 'Best pizza' by the Food Network. And by Kelly Ripa? C'mon, a pizza expert at 65lbs? Flag.
Spunto: Best pizza served on a cracker - I told you they were arbitrary.

And now Keste: Ranked #1 by New York Magazine. This immediately put on a chalkboard outside.

Was it the best pizza I have ever eaten? No. But I have also deemed every slice post 2am THE BEST pizza I have ever had. It's all about what you're looking for: Are you jonesin' for a traditional slice of NYC, oozing with cheese and a slightly charred, chewy crust? Or maybe it's a nice night with a gourmet pie and a bottle of wine. Perhaps it's a few slices of thin crust for lunch, to avoid the impending food coma. Or are you just that drunk that 'best' would be defined as a slice as big as your face? (A pizzeria down in our nation's capital deserves a shoutout here - The Jumbo Slice of Adam's Morgan - which put my large noggin to shame).

My point being, I treat pizza like I do eggs: sometimes I want 'em poached and served with a side of hollandaise - and other days I just need a nice scramble. We all have our favorites and we all have our places. So if you find yourself craving a Neapolitan pie with artichokes, smoked mozzarella, red and yellow peppers and a healthy smattering of butternut squash cream...well then it's a Keste day my friend.

- The Heat

For nymag's take on the top 20 pizzas in NYC: http://nymag.com/restaurants/cheapeats/2009/57893/


Keste Pizza & Vino 
http://www.kestepizzeria.com/
271 Bleecker St
New York, NY 10014-4102
(212) 243-1500

10.12.2009

The Quick and Dirty: the New Ashiya - Sushi with a Side of Frat Boy


Ever fantasize about eating raw fish in the middle of a frat party? Well Cybil, your dream is now reality. 


Passable sushi and all you can drink sake bombs are enough to lure recent grads from their seats at Dorrian's to check out the East Village. Okay okay - I'm sorry for all the stereotyping - some had to have been from 'boken too. 


Hot: Be as noisy and drunk as you want - they wont bat an eyelash. 


Cold: Everyone else is being as noisy and drunk as they want. You have been warned.


Must try: Stick with the house special rolls - the Sunset Roll in particular was a real crowd pleaser. Although that was after about 6 pitchers of beer, so it's all relative.


The New Ashiya
167 First Ave near 10th Street
website:  www.ashiya2.com

10.06.2009

It's Official: My Favorite Season Has Arrived


For some it's the autumnal equinox. For me its butternut squash. Whatever way marks the beginning of Fall for you, celebrate it with my favorite autumnal dish: Butternut Squash Soup. Here are two versions for you to try: Heart Healthy and Heart Happy.  Enjoy!


 Heart Happy: (adapted from Thomas Keller's recipe that includes browned butter, sage, and nutmeg creme fraiche)



One 3-3 1/2-pound butternut squash
2 tablespoons canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sage sprigs
1 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) leeks, white and light green parts only
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) carrots
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) shallots
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch) onions
6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons honey
6 cups vegetable stock, plus extra if necessary
Bouquet Garni, using 8 thyme sprigs, 2 Italian parsley sprigs, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
1/4 cup creme fraiche
Freshly grated nutmeg
Canola oil (if using sage leaves)
8 sage leaves or 1 tablespoon minced chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

For the soup: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil. Chop the neck off of the squash and set aside. Cut the bulb in half and scoop out the seeds. Brush each half all over with 1 1/2 teaspoons of canola oil. Sprinkle the cavities with salt and pepper, and place a sage sprig into each. Place cut side down on baking sheet and bake for 1 hour, or until very tender.

Remove squash from oven and let cool until it can be handled. Scoop out the flesh and reserve, discarding the sage.

In the meantime, with a paring knife or a sharp vegetable peeler, peel away the skin from the reserved neck of the squash, until you reach the bright orange flesh. Cut the squash into roughly 1/2-inch pieces. It should yield about 4 cups.

Put 1 tablespoon canola oil in a stockpot over medium high heat. Add leeks, carrots, and onions. Cook, stirring often, for about 6 minutes. Add the diced squash, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook gently for 3 minutes. Reduce heat as necessary to keep garlic and squash from coloring. Add honey, and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add stock and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until squash is tender.

Add the reserved roasted squash and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and discard the bouquet garni.

Puree the soup in a blender or with an immersion blender. Strain the soup through a fine strainer. Adjust the seasoning. If soup is too thick, add more stock.

To complete: Whisk creme fraiche in a small chilled metal bowl, and add nutmeg to taste. Whisk until it holds a shape.

Heat a medium skillet over high heat. When very hot, add butter. Rotate the pan over the heat as necessary to brown the butter evenly. Scrape any bits that settle on the bottom. When the foaming has subsided, and the butter smells nutty, add it to the soup.

Meanwhile, if using the sage leaves, heat 1/8 inch of canola oil in a small skillet. When very hot, add sage leaves and cook 30 seconds or so, turning the leaves to crisp them on both sides. They're ready when the bubbling stops. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt.

Ladle soup into 4 bowls. Top with a dollop of creme fraiche. Grind black pepper over the top, and garnish with sage leaves or minced chives. Drizzle olive oil over the top.


Heart Healthy: an apple a day...


For this recipe, I substitute caramelized onions for leeks and add a few apples for a touch of sweetness. The directions are similar to those above - but simpler!


One 3-3 1/2-pound butternut squash
3 medium sized apples, cored, peeled and diced (I used Honey Crisp). Optional: set aside a few tablespoons to top the soup with, squirt with some lemon juice to keep from browning.
1 large onion, finely chopped (vidalia's are nice and sweet)
1/2 cup thinly sliced carrots
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons honey
6 cups vegetable stock, plus extra if necessary
Bouquet Garni, using 8 thyme sprigs, 2 Italian parsley sprigs, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
2 sage sprigs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 tsp of freshly ground nutmeg

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil. Chop the neck off of the squash and set aside. Cut the bulb in half and scoop out the seeds. Brush each half all over with 1 1/2 teaspoons of canola oil. Sprinkle the cavities with salt and pepper, and place a sage sprig into each. Place cut side down on baking sheet and bake for 1 hour, or until very tender.


Remove squash from oven and let cool until it can be handled. Scoop out the flesh and reserve, discarding the sage.

In the meantime, with a paring knife or a sharp vegetable peeler, peel away the skin from the reserved neck of the squash, until you reach the bright orange flesh. Cut the squash into roughly 1/2-inch pieces. It should yield about 4 cups.

Put 1 tablespoon canola oil in a stockpot over medium high heat. Add carrots, and onions. Cook, stirring often, for about 6 minutes. Add the diced squash, apples, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook gently for 3 minutes. Reduce heat as necessary to keep garlic and squash from coloring. Add honey, and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add stock and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until squash is tender.
Add the reserved roasted squash and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and discard the bouquet garni.

Puree the soup in a blender or with an immersion blender. Strain the soup through a fine strainer. Adjust the seasoning. If soup is too thick, add more stock.

To complete: I like to serve it with a tablespoon of finely diced apples in the middle, topped with some freshly grated nutmeg.


Happy Fall!
-The Heat

10.02.2009

The Sandwich that Saved my Life…and the Bottle of Wine That Tried to Take It.

This might be my first post about grilled cheese sandwiches, but I guarantee you it wont be my last. Plain and simple, the way to my heart is with grilled cheese and a bowl of cream of tomato soup. Anytime, anywhere. In my humble opinion, it is the ultimate comfort food. And comfort was exactly what I needed this morning. And by morning, I mean 1pm.

Contacts stuck to my eyeballs and last nights makeup threatening blindness, I concocted one of my best, and most creative grilled cheeses to date. Soft whole wheat bread, a shmear of grey poupon, piles of Jarlsburg cheese, loads of butter – and here’s where it gets interesting – one half cherry tomatoes, one half bread and butter pickles – because no one should be forced to make that kind of a decision in that kind of state. It was just short of heaven due to the slightly scorched bread, as you can see in the picture, but I blame that on the contacts.   And the wine.


But oh the wine! A crisp Savignon Clos Roche Blanche I apparently swam in at Scarpetta last night. Multiple times. It paired perfectly with the simple, aromatic tomato and basil spaghetti I had for dinner…and then a second round for dessert…and actually breakfast too if you consider seeing it again in the sink this morning – yummy. If that lovely picture is not going to keep you from trying Scarpetta, the price tags might. A fist sized serving of spaghetti with tomato sauce sets you back $24.

That's 48 bucks for two. Third time's on the house.

Scarpetta
355 W 14th St
New York, NY 10014-5001
(212) 691-0555
http://www.scarpettanyc.com/
 
I’d like to dedicate this post to my faithful dog –who lovingly held her bladder for me until 2pm today. Friends for life.